Buying a New Supra

I have been asked my opinions on buying a supra so much that I just had to make a web page, mainly because I got tired of writing the same info over and over and also because I'm sure every time I forgot something or the other.

This is my theory when you get a new any new used car.  A lot of the info is supra specific and I'm basically referring to a MKIV Supra but the info can be applied to any new used car obtained.

Ok the pro's of a new supra, great for mods and no major problems, can't afford a Supra Twin Turbo well alternatives that you should look at are the 300ZX Twin Turbo its attainable cheap and can be moded with relative ease and cost.  Other alternatives are RX-7 nice for light weight but problematic with 93-94 for clearcoat and the rotary doesn't last long.  3000GT VR4 is heavy and blows trannies and clutches too often.

Ok what years should you get for your new supra

Well the 93-98's are all great especially if your leaving it stock.   If your like me though you will want to beef it up.  So you should first get a 93-95 because they don't have OBDII (I think it stands for On Board Diagnostics).   Second get the 6-speed if you can, its very fun to drive.  3rd if you are a performance driven person don't get the targa top, it adds to weight and I'm pretty sure their is a loss of rigidity, hence when racing leave the targa on if you get it.  Now if your really performance driven get a Supra Naturally Aspirated and send it off to Powerhouse of TX call Jarrett Humpries at (409) 63-Power he specializes in turning Naturally Aspirated Supras into Turbo'ed monsters.  See his supra in Street Power Nov/Dec 97

What to look for:  well the supra is awesome, but the flaws are evident when the car is wrecked, or the car will show signs here is what to look for, some are basic to all cars and some are supra specific.  Ok look at the headlights see if they have any condensation in them if so then most likely the car has been in an accident, the accident could be minor or major.  Check the underside of the vehicle and see if you see any paint on the front fascia that leads off or the paint is fading off this could mean the front panel has been pulled and painted for some reason or the other.  Check the body panel welds, see if they are a little changed or have been reset, compare the sides you feel are conspicuos with other sides.   If you see a change then something or a panel may have been changed.  Check for new parts or shiny parts that look out of place in a greasy or dirty area.  Check the rotors for wear if all 3 rotors are different in wear and 1 is like new or has much more left that means the side has been hit by the rim and the rotor needed replacing, you can see this also if the other 3 calipers have paint fade or paint wear and the 4th looks new.  Drive it, sometimes there is a clicking or a weird feel in stop and sudden go, this feel could be suspension is off or a bushing is bad -- this could also be motor mount, the motor mount doesn't mean its exactly been hit, but it could be a leading sign of modifications or the car has been driven hard, they go bad under larger than normal stress.  Check for bad paint or check for bad matching in paint on the fade section.   Check the windows see if there is a sign or non-toyota sign on a window, this means the window has been replaced by a generic window replacement, almost always windows are replaced by generics.  The stock windows will have Toyota symbols on them.   There are a few more suttle things, but the if the major sign is there you will know for sure the car has had an accident and then you should decide from there. 

Ok now what should you do when you obtain the Supra Twin Turbo, here are my suggestions total cost from $500-$1000 and most people will do it over time, but you can do it all in one shot.

Change Fluids

Engine Oil -- go pure synthetic I use Mobil 1 10w-30 or Redline (redline may be expensive or hard to find).  If your supra is   not synthetic already ween it over by using a half/half blend like Valvoline durablend or Castrol's mix.  Also I try to change my oil every 2000 miles and at the latest 3000.  Also use Toyota Oil filters -- call Jeff Watson at Jay Marks Toyota 1-800-327-2087 tell him Nero sent you and you want the Supra discount.  Talk to Jeff for any Toyota or TRD parts

Transmission Fluid -- I have the 6-speed and would recommend Redline MT-90 all the way, you can get this from powerhouse also if there is no one local for you

Differential Fluid -- Use Redline again and its 75w/90 for it gear oil of course

Coolant -- The minimum for street use is a 20% antifreeze rate, if your in FL like me then you don't have to worry about the cold, to be on the safe side I'd use 30%.  Also use deionized water its suppose to be good for your aluminum Engine Head.  Also I recommend Redlines Water Wetter additive it works very good and is only $5 a bottle, you can use 1 or 2 bottles for your Coolant the stuff is pink and comes in a small clear bottle.

Steering Fluid -- I personally haven't done it yet, I know that there is a synthetic fluid I believe by redline, as I get more time I'll research this and tell you guys exactly what to use

Brake Fluid -- well if your changing your brake fluid you might as well do a brake line upgrade I'd go TRD its about $120 I believe, also use Motul Synthetic Brake fluid

Brake Pads -- if and when your pads need replacing I'd use the TRD pads, they make 3 types -- the 1st is street, the 2nd is HP-Z street/strip - I use these and will be putting them on soon, the 3rd if full race.  Now if you don't want to upgrade to the TRD don't see why not the street are only $3 more than the Stock Toyota's then get the stock Toyota's anything else just plain sucks - don't try and save a buck here you'll regret it, and threw Jeff Watson the pads are very competitively priced.

Tires -- The front rims are 17x8 and stock tires are 235/45/17, you can fit the 255/40/17's on no problem.  Rear rims are 17x9.5 and tires are 255/40/17's you can fit 275/40/17's no problem, some people go with 315/35/17's but the tires specs for these tires are 10 inch wide rims, so its your call here.  I use BFGoodrich 255/40's on front 275/40's rear they are Comp T/A's not the drag radials.

Fuel Filter -- definitely replace this one, I have been told every 30,000 miles is normal and 20,000 is recommended by performance guru's.   It costs only $20 or so for the filter and should only take about 20 minutes to replace, its located in the tranny well by the drivers side seat, size is about size of oil filter.  Again use Toyota filter.

Injectors -- clean them, there are really like 3 methods.  The best pull them and get them cleaned, balanced and blueprinted.   The 2nd is done with them on car and is like a pressure clean threw them.  The 3rd is threw the gasoline, by way of add on cleaner threw the tank, if using this I've been told the redline and cheveron is good, remember to work those injectors when cleaning, don't leave it in low revs the full time, max out the fuel capacity to get some good pressure flow.

Alignment -- this is very important and worth every penny, if your alignment is off by too much you can say goodbye to those $200 tires and you'll be unhappy with your normal driving, also do this when any suspension changes are made, especially after installing new springs, if you get springs go straight to the alignment shop, also you shouldn't pay more than $20-$30 for this, stay away from the lifetime alignment for $80 you most likely will never use it to its full value, and many places that sell tires and stuff give alignment for free if you ask for it

Spark Plugs -- Change them, recommended is 60,000 miles, I'd change them sooner.  You must go with Toyota plugs cost is about $5 a plug threw Jeff Watson, you can also go with NGK or Nippondenso which are the manufacturer of Toyota plugs.  Anything else will cause serious problems and you will not be happy with your choice.  I recommend Toyota plugs they work great and are very reasonably priced, plus they are good for really any HP rating.  They only make 1 level of plug, and I've been told it is unnecessary to use colder plugs when boosting to higher levels (of course this is within reason), if using lots of boost or NOS then please do some more research don't take my word for it.  But if your supra is stock or semi-stock use Toyota plugs.

Manuals -- there are 3 manuals for the Supra TT threw Toyota, they cost $200 total from Jeff Watson and are very helpful.  The 1st 2 are general and engine manuals the 3rd is an electrical manual.  If doing labor yourself you should buy these they are worth it and can save lots of time and money.

Rear Hatch Rubbers -- there are 4 total rubbers.   2 for top, 2 for bottom, they are about $8 a pair.  Some people have mentioned noise from the rear hatch on older Supra's so you can easily replace them.   Supposedly they changed the design for the newer models, but when I got mine I saw no differences.  Also these may wear out in time so its good to replace them if you see fit to.