Intercooler Pipe Upgrade

Now this is big deal to many, its not hard but it is time consuming and it does require some patience.  The intercooler pipe upgrade replaces the stock intercooler pipes with new pipes made out of metal so that there is no boost lost due to expansion of the stock rubber pipes.  Under high boost you can see the stock pipes expand and thus lose pressure since pressure is directly related to volume.  The New pipes being metal do not flex.

I am describing the HKS Intercooler Pipe upgrade, this is the most common kit that is used

There are 5 pieces to replace. 

1.. Intake (turbo side) right off of it

2.. piece that attaches to Intercooler (turbo side) this piece goes threw the inner fender wall or apron

3.. After the intercooler, this piece has a flange and 2 bolt holes to use for the stock IC

4.. piece that has a 90 degree bend, it goes from the bottom and L's upward

5.. also has 90 degree bend but this piece opens up and has a different size ends, this is the last piece it goes up and bends toward the Intake Manifold

Ok here are pics of the stock IC Piping

Stock IC has 4 pieces

1.. Turbo side Pipe 1 under hood

2.. Turbo side IC connecter goes threw the fender wall or inner apron

3.. After the IC the main under pipe, one long piece whole pipe is hard plastic

4.. hard pipe and Large Hose shaped Pipe, can be removed as 1 piece as shown above

Above: The stock lower piece of the IC piping

Below:  Here the pipe below shows the stock mounting point for the bottom pipe piece, the HKS uses the same mounts, but the HKS piece is not one full tube like the stock instead it uses 2 pieces for the bottom section

Below:  This truely was a pain, the piece that goes to the intake manifold, the last IC pipe in the line, during installation I found this unexpected piece was holding the IC pipe onto the body, it required me to remove 1-2 bolts to remove the holder and then remove the IC pipe, It seemed a little small for the HKS pipe and so I did not reuse it when I installed the HKS IC pipe

This is the stock upper pieces, piece 1 and 2, Piece one is the lower left piece, it was the easiest to remove

Tools needed, again you need a 1/4" rachet, extension, 10mm socket, screw Driver flat head, socket for clamps, Jack and Jack stands or something to lift the vehicle

Ok there is an underpanel that you will need to remove, the underpanel has a bunch of 10mm screws in it, remove the underpanel under the engine, the front underpanel will not need to be removed, although I did remove it to clean any debris that may be inside and just incase it needed to be removed I did so, there were only a few extra screws to remove it.  The side panels under the IC and the rear panel in front of the wheel will need loosening.  there are a lot of panels that need to be removed, I suggest when Installing the kit doing 1 or 2 pieces at a time.

To start with the Turbo side, remove the 1st piece.  Then undue the panel in front of the passenger side tire to access the IC hose and clamp, then remove the stock pipe.   After removing the 2 turbo Side Pipes, start to install the 2nd pipe, use the hoses and attach the IC pipe well down and tight, then start up from the ic installing the 1st pipe.

Now down to the IC and after pipes, remove the underpanel the main one under the engine.  There are lots of bolts and you can remove them with a normal socket and ratchet, but if you have a easy drill then it can be a lot more convenient, I used a rachet and socket and still it didn't take much time.  then start to remove the main under pipe (1 piece) remove the 2 screws attachign it to the body, and remove the hose end going toward the engine, you can see the exact hose ends I removed in the pictures above.   Now that the IC is loose you get a little problem, you need to get to the IC to undue the hose clamp, now depending on how the hose clamp is facing or the undue bolt is facing will really tell you if you need to remove the under panel, also the tools you have will decide this if you have a wobble or a degree type angle device removing another panel may not be neccessary, this panel is like the IC panel, it has about 4-6 bolts and they are the same type of 10mm bolt remove them and remove the 2 plastic screws (they pop right out) and pull the piece, you'll see it when you get down there.

***Tip if you cannot get to the 2 bolts easily you can remove the battery to get a lot of clearance and the room you need, for this you'll need 10mm and 12mm socket, 12mm for the negative end connecter I believe, and 10mm for the other 3 bolts, 1 for +, 2 for battery holder***

Then remove the Uper IC pipe #4 under hood, remove the clamp and make the hose loose.   Then go back under the car, now you have some more IC play area, remove the 1-2 bolts with the round clamp (metal piece) to undue the whole pipe, when I found this it was a little confusing, I used a 1/4" rachet and socket, I don't think you can do it with the extension bar.  undue this piece and you are ready to pull the IC pipe out, I pulled the IC #4 pipe out the top or from under the hood. 

***Tip if you cannot secure the pipe #4 to #5 hose clamp well you can remove the battery to get a lot of clearance and the room you need, for this you'll need 10mm and 12mm socket, 12mm for the negative end connecter I believe, and 10mm for the other 3 bolts, 1 for +, 2 for battery holder***

***Tip when installing the hose clamps on the top piece or pipe #5 to the intake manifold, install them with the top facing up and them toward the side, either side, DO NOT face them up top like I did above because you will notice that after a little while the top of the clamp will rub against the hoodLiner and cut into it, it only rubs and I haven't changed it since the damage is no big deal and its more of a pain to remove the IC pipe then to change it, but if doing it the first time then do it right***

Now install the pipe HKS Pipe #3 again make sure the pipe is attached well to the IC since you do not want this hose getting loose, attach the sraight pipe with the stock bolts and the body piece, the 2 holes and bolts line up perfectly.  Then attach the upper pipe #5 or place the pipe #5 in the area in a snug type location.  Then you will put pipe #4 connecting it to the pipe #5 and attach it first then slide pipe end #4 to #3 and secure them, go back up top tighten pipe #5 and you should be already to go.

Put the second panel (if removed) by the IC the one w/the plastic screws back on, you may go out and test without the underpanel, I suggest this, boost high and don't go far from home, if your pipe comes loose you will know it the car will run really bad and there will be a lot of black smoke coming out, do extensive boost testing but don't go far from home.  If the car dies or the car starts acting real bad go home, you have a loose IC hose and reconnect and adjust, after adjusting go out and test again.  Once everything looks good reinstall the underpanel.  You should be all set.  I did have the IC pipe come loose the first time, after adjusting I got it to not come loose since.